User:Solmization/strategy drabble

Since a handful of people have said that I'm one of the best candidates to make a strategy guide on Werewolf, I've done so here, perhaps not in the most visually appealing or engaging fashion (but hey, I did it). This guide assumes that you know the basic mechanics of lykos's Werewolf game, and that you are playing on Freenode or a server with similar rules. It also assumes that you're a decent player already but want to learn some theory or find a more optimal way to play, so the guide is written for intermediate players. I won't bother defining terms on this page, but will link resources for you to find those terms.

If you're a newer or inexperienced player, it would probably be more beneficial to follow these links:
 * Roles - Read up on these. There are a lot of roles in Werewolf, many of which are not present in other versions of the game or IRL, and new players can quickly find themselves overwhelmed and not knowing how to even play out the game. Getting some background on the workings of each of the roles will help you understand what the role is meant to do for their team and help you begin to formulate strategies around them.
 * Freenode:Terminology - If you're playing on Freenode, some of the jargon/shorthand we use to refer to things may not be immediately intuitive or obvious to you. That's why you should read the terminology to understand what we mean when we say certain things.
 * Iovoid's basic guide - Some basic strategy tips for various roles to help you get going. It's not in-depth, but will help you avoid a lot of noob mistakes, or inform you about some safe plays you can make while you're still learning the ins and outs of the game.
 * Starman's stuff to not do guide - If you're a new player who is constantly called out for making mistakes and don't understand what mistakes you're making, it could be helpful to check out this guide. It details common mistakes which most new players make, and tells you how to avoid them or play around them.

Claiming priority
See User:Timson/Claiming priority.

Role-specific advice
Incomplete

Villager
The most useless of all village roles. However, they still play an important role.

Do:

 * Pay attention to the game. Villagers are often the "swing votes." Since you have no privileged information, you are easier to trick, and you can be sure that the wolves will jump on even a few incorrect villager votes to kill that person and bring themselves one step closer to victory. Wait for the known safes to coordinate and follow them, and be sure that a lynch you're following is correct.
 * Passively act like you have privileged information. Try to be subtle and do things that seem like what a person with a role would do. Some examples are: voting immediately after a safe does (or even better, having a safe follow you on a seemingly random lynch) and fakehinting at night.
 * Always claim to the lead safe if you have a template. Villager-gunners are especially powerful since the safes now know one more guaranteed good player than they should.

Don't:

 * Be an idiot. Doing things like outright claiming that you're seer as villager is stupid and will probably get you lynched, and no one will believe you.
 * Idle. This usually involves whining about one's role on the first night and declaring that they won't participate. Everyone gets that being a villager is not the most exciting thing, but you are a player in the game, and you should actually participate in the channel and help your team win. Not doing so is a sign of poor sportsmanship.
 * Make it blatantly obvious that you're a villager. Complain all you want about how out of all the roles you could've gotten, you're villager; that will do nothing but encourage the wolves not to kill you, or allow them to throw shade on you if you overdo the complaining to a point where it gets obnoxious. Follow the above advice and try to act like you have privileged information instead of acting like you have no information.
 * Blindly follow wagons. You need to use your presence of mind and discern the fake claims from the real ones, especially in more difficult modes like aleatoire and sleepy. If someone is being voted with no rhyme or reason by someone other than the lead safe, other than "random" or "gut feeling," you should not follow the wagon. Instead, you should note who is voting with them.

Other:

 * Gambits you could try as villager include the "villager channel" (where you ask for villager PMs and lynch people who don't reply), and various in-channel baiting of suspicious people to draw their attention towards you and force them to defend themselves. Neither one of those are very sound and can be refuted or even make you look suspicious.

Seer/Oracle
Probably one of the most important and powerful village roles. Be careful when you're playing as seer, as one suspicious move can mean your death. The same goes for if you're oracle, but you do not have the advantage of being able to see safe roles then, so be even more wary.

Do:

 * See quickly (especially in smaller games) and hint what you see in channel. You have privileged information that other people do not have. Be quick; hint your findings at night so that the village team makes more informed decisions even in the event of your death. Make sure to make that point very clear if you're coming into the public eye as a seer.
 * Be ready to deconstruct any false seer claims. Fake seer claims usually involve wolves "seeing" who they killed, or saying that you're wolf only after you do the same to them. Always have arguments ready so that the villagers are not tricked by the wolves' antics.
 * Gear your hints so that they are not immediately obvious, but that the rest of the village will understand what you're trying to convey in retrospect.

Don't:

 * Immediately vote who you saw as wolf in larger games. This is a very common mistake that new players make; they get too excited about seeing a wolf and will always vote them right after night ends. However, not only is there the possibility of a cursed villager in large games, but even if you successfully take out a wolf, you are now left wide open for being killed by wolves. The seer should not be the first claim when other, less valuable/targetable safes (such as the harlot or village drunk) are available to claim. Instead of voting seen wolves right away, coordinate with safes first so that you don't become an obvious target.
 * PM people who you saw as villagers in larger games. This is also a very common beginner mistake, usually done after they find out that this version of Werewolf allows you to message people outside of channel. While in smaller games (4-6p default) this is a good play, as there are no wolfteam roles that are seen as villager, this is a huge risk to take in larger games. You could be inadvertently PMing a wolfteam role that is seen as villager, such as the cultist, hag, or traitor, and letting them know your identity, allowing them to leak this information to the wolves and have you killed before you even get a chance to play the game.
 * Act hastily if you have a template. If you're seer-assassin, you should always see before targeting. If you're seer-gunner, you should not immediately shoot any wolves you find right after night ends, especially if you hinted at night who the wolf was. That is an obvious seer move, and will get you killed the second night more often than not unless you have the resources on the safe team to protect you. Also, it is not always a good idea to immediately have other gunners shoot players that you saw wolves as well, or immediately vote wolves you saw in larger games, as smart wolves can find your hint from the first night and kill you off.

Other:

 * In larger games, other safes should give you time to conduct your visions. If you inadvertently end night because all of the other safes hastily performed their roles to get them over with, and you get killed and you have no time to relay your information, that is not your fault, but theirs. Other players should know that the seer is a very fragile role and adjust their game plans accordingly.

Village Drunk
Also a role that usually doesn't have any powers, despite being easily identifiable. However, drink responsibly, because the responsibility you will hold in the game can be very high.

Do:

 * Be ready to coordinate. As village drunk, the wolves gain very little out of killing you, so you will often be in the public eye gathering all the more important safes. As soon as day begins, unless there is a harlot present, you will usually be the first to claim and ask for safe PMs. Do this even if you are not confident in your ability to lead, since more experienced safes will PM you with guidance on what to do.
 * Be careful if you have a template. If you're a drunk gunner, you'll have more bullets but a greater chance of backfiring. If you're a drunk assassin, you can't control who you target. Adjust your game plans accordingly.

Don't:

 * Be an idiot and/or "roleplay" being drunk. Some people seem to think that the village drunk is a neutral role and just screw around and fakeclaim everything (without the actual role's discretion). You will probably be downvoted and asked to learn how to play the game. Additionally, there are also people who type in that they're "stumbling" or act as if they're drunk on the first night, which is an obvious sign that they're the village drunk. Avoid these things at all costs.
 * Publicly question the template changes. The wolves would love to learn that you're confused about being a drunk assassin targeting a random person, and will take you and possibly another villager out in one fell swoop. Instead, if you're confused about something, ask the safes that PM you instead.

Harlot
One of the most popular and fun roles to play in the game for most players. I mean, you get to sleep with people. How amazing is that? But with great fun comes great responsibility, because you will be the one to lead more often than not. Knowing effective ways to play as harlot is crucial to the village's victory.

Do:

 * Hint who you'll be doing sexytime with each night. There are two main ways to go about this:
 * Hinting early, visiting late - This strategy is usually used to direct the wolves' attention towards you. The general premise is that you act like a seer by hinting someone as wolf or villager, and then when night is almost about to end, you visit them. If your hint was correct, the wolves will target you, but since you aren't seer you will dodge the attack and can then safely claim. And of course, if you visit a wolf, everyone will be able to find that hint and quickly take out the wolf.
 * Hinting late, visiting late - This strategy is usually used to make sure you do not visit the victim, and to confirm to everyone that you are the harlot. There are multiple ways you can go about this. One way is to hint more than one person, confusing the wolves about who you are or who they should kill. Then, as soon as night is about to end, you declare that you are visiting a completely new person, who will often not be targeted due to the confounding hints. This has the added benefit of guaranteeing that you are harlot, making it difficult for visited traitors to fakeclaim "not visited" with any authenticity.


 * Be ready to coordinate. As harlot, you will often be the lead safe, since the wolves cannot directly target you. This makes you the best person for gathering safes and relaying information, as you probably won't be the one dying. As soon as day begins, declare who you visited, claim harlot, and ask for safe PMs. Do this even if you are not confident in your ability to lead, since more experienced safes will PM you with guidance on what to do.

Don't:

 * Visit early. You want to give the other roles, particularly the seer, ample time to perform their jobs. Visiting early runs the risk of other players not being able to hint their actions in time.
 * This is even worse if you make it painfully obvious who you're going to visit and also visit early. If you publicly announce that you're visiting someone else after 25 seconds pass in night, and then you actually visit them, they will probably be the victim, and village team will go -2 for nothing. As such, making your visit target immediately obvious is a huge blunder, and gives the village no information unless you hit a wolf.


 * Visit when the village team can lose majority with your death. Remember that at any time the wolves have the same number of players as villagers, they automatically win, regardless of how much information you have. If you're at the point where going -2 will incur a loss, you should not visit anymore. The risk/reward is heavily skewed against you; at best, you'll be visiting someone who might be a villager, and at worst you instantly lose the game. That's not a good trade-off.

Shaman
The most fun role to play in my opinion. The shaman tests your situational awareness of who to give totems to at what times, similar to plot cards or Lady of the Lake if you've played resistance/Avalon before. They also have the most opportunities to play ~mastermind logic games~ mind games with the wolves, besides the harlot. However, as totems are random, they can also get very unlucky at times, so tread carefully.

Do:

 * Follow these general tips per totem you might get.
 * Death ("DT") - The absolute worst totem to get n1, but one of the best totems to get in subsequent nights, especially later on in the game when you have more information. The DT is what makes the shaman so much of a threat, as at any moment they can heavily skew the game state and force the disadvantaged team to change their strategies. In aleatoire, because shaman receives the DT more frequently, they're even more of a power player to the village team; this is one of the reasons why shaman claims after most roles in that mode.
 * If you get a DT on the first night, I'm sorry; you just had bad RNG. If you can, try looking for a seer hint that seems correct. You want to try to find a wolf hint. If someone is hinted as wolf and they're barely talking, chances are they're wolf (or an idle safe, but that's their fault), so you should try going for them. Be careful in modes with more cursed villagers or vengeful ghosts (i.e. aleatoire), however, as you have a higher chance of hitting a legitimately cursed safe or making the VG side with the wolves.
 * In default mode, if you have no leads at all, DT the crazed shaman. Although the general rule is to keep them alive, they're someone who you know can betray the village, so if nothing else, they should die so as to not risk killing a safe.
 * Otherwise, if you're in contact with the seer or other safes, make sure to collaborate with them before giving a DT.
 * Revealing - This is more of a utility totem; it basically acts as a detective that costs a day lynch. If you have revealing, feel free to give it to anyone but yourself. If that person is a safe, oh well - no big loss. If that person is an unsafe and you don't have a good lead, and lynching them won't cause the village to lose majority the next night, it behooves you to lynch that person even if you don't think they're particularly suspicious. That way, they are either confirmed a villager or a wolf, and if you haven't used gunner shots or hunter kills, or get a DT the next night, you know who to avoid or target.
 * If you're playing with a lot of new players who are unfamiliar with online Werewolf and prefer to lynch anyone being "quiet" or attempting to guide the village (as these are signs of mafia/wolf behavior in most cases IRL), it may be helpful to give revealing to yourself. Although it makes you a wolf target, it will at least give you another night should they bandwagon you without a real reason.
 * Silence - Another bad totem to receive n1, but very useful in the end game. On night 1, if you get silence, give it to anyone but yourself. If you silence a safe, it will set you back, but it's not a significant loss. If you silence a wolf role, it'll probably annoy them and decrease their power for a day at least.
 * Silence totems later on can give you significant information. If you gave someone silence one night, and you eliminate all the wolves but one that can kill, and there were no idlers but no night kills, you immediately know that the person you gave silence to couldn't kill that night, definitively revealing the identity of the last wolf.
 * Also note that silence totems also work on vengeful ghosts, so if you have no good leads and you lynch a silenced VG, it's not the end of the world.
 * Desperation - A decent totem all around that can generate significant advantage. Feel free to give desperation to any random unsafe in most cases, though there are special cases covered later where you'll want to give it to yourself.
 * An unsafe target with desperation should be lynched, and lynched very quickly as to not risk accidentally dying. Inform the safes you're in contact with (if any) to all quickly vote the person who received the totem, down to 1-2 votes left. This will ensure that none of you die from the effects of the totem, while forcing unsafes to vote out the target to end the day, giving you essentially two kills that day to narrow down the board. The fact that wolves usually reluctantly lynch towards the end of a vote, especially on fellow wolves (as to not seem suspicious by not voting), helps this strategy greatly because their slowness can backfire on them and incur multiple minuses to the wolf team.
 * Situational gambit: If you know you're outnumbered by wolfteam members and that they will lynch you next (i.e. wolf and cultist/CS v.s. you), you should give desperation to yourself and vote yourself immediately. That way, if the wolf foolishly lynches you as soon as they see that you're "giving up," they will die and villagers will win. However, this will not work if the secondary wolfteam member votes you instead, but at that point you're basically going all or nothing, so it won't really make a difference if you lose there anyway.
 * Protection - Probably the best totem to get throughout the entire game. Protection can guard vulnerable safes, save yourself, and even create 75%-100% safe players if a random unsafe with protection is attacked. However, whiffing a protection totem on yourself is very risky; I'll cover that more below.
 * As shaman, you do not always want to protect yourself n1, unless you're employing a fakehinting gambit, or have a template and do not want it to go to waste. Protecting yourself n1 isn't a bad play, but it has many vulnerabilities against a seasoned wolf team, for these reasons:
 * Unless you're me and the wolves love killing you for no reason, the probability that you will specifically be the one to die n1 compared to another person is very low (and practically zero if you're cursed), so you will more often than not whiff protection.
 * The recipient of a totem is public knowledge. Someone who receives a totem the first night is unable to be protected again on the second; if the wolves are looking for a guaranteed kill, they will gravitate towards the person who received a totem, usually inferring that it was the shaman who protected or retributed themselves. This is significantly worse if you have to be the one to claim, since the wolves will know to target you and you can't do anything about it.
 * In aleatoire mode, the shaman is the most powerful role, but also receives protection more often than any other totem. A non-wolf who receives a totem, is not lynched, generally stays quiet, and follows the safe is the shaman in their eyes. If they're right (and most of the time, they are), you will be taken out almost instantly, which is why you should actually stay away from protecting yourself n1 in that mode unless you have a template.
 * Instead of auto-clicking "give " when you see protection n1, try looking for seer hints, especially in aleatoire mode. If you can catch one person hinting cleverly, or only one person gives a hint that makes sense, they might be better candidates to receive protection. It's best if they aren't actually seer, as you might protect a villager who hinted correctly, which can give you significant advantage when trying to figure out the board.
 * Otherwise, give it to any safe that you feel needs it (usually after collaborating with safes - make sure to always talk things over with safes before doing anything), or protect yourself if you think you've been too quiet on a certain day and that the wolves will come after you.
 * Impatience - The totem that is best given to people who might not vote with the village. Impatience is a tricky totem to get used to because the description is kind of confusing and it's generally non-intuitive; it's not immediately obvious who should get it in certain situations, and even if you give it to the right person, it still might not work out in your favor. But hopefully this explanation will help you understand how to use this totem more and take advantage of its effects to the fullest.
 * Impatience is only a useful totem for the safes in situations where you need two votes but are not guaranteed (or cannot) get those votes. Think of, say, a 3p situation with wolf, cultist, and some random villager, where the shaman was just killed the previous night. The wolf and cultist will obviously team up to vote the villager and win, or they might play it safe and vote the cultist to win. There is no chance that villagers will get the votes needed to take out the wolf, and that's where impatience comes in. Always keep in mind that impatience should always go to the wild card (wild card = not wolf but wolf-sided). This has two positive effects. One, it blocks off the safest play for cultists and minions (lynching themselves) because players with impatience can't vote for themselves. Two, it will give you that one extra vote necessary to take out the wolf, if you vote fast enough on the wolf. The speed necessary to win is exactly why you should communicate with anyone remaining on your team in case you die if you are about to enter such a situation, and not make it public knowledge that you are giving impatience to the cultist, minion, or CS.
 * A common mistake with inexperienced shamans is that they will give impatience to the confirmed wolf. This does nothing to help the village at all and will result in a guaranteed loss.
 * Otherwise, if you're not in these situations, impatience is a mediocre totem and can pretty much be given to anyone, even yourself, with no real harm or benefit.
 * Pacifism - This is the absolute worst totem to get, period. If given to a villager, their vote won't count, giving wolves more time to mislead the village, and starting from n2 wolves can force an abstain and take control of the game in certain scenarios. The only benefits arise from when a wolf is given pacifism. A wolf who can't vote will be unable to force wins, and might be outed if their playstyle revolves around waiting for other people to vote and jumping on the wagon at the last second. However, pacifism is nearly completely outclassed by silence for this purpose, which has the same benefits of outing the wolf (outside of 3p situations, where it still can't force a win and impatience/influence are better) but with much less risk involved concerning wolves manipulating votes or abstains. Also, why pacify them when you can just DT them outright? There's almost always a totem that does pacifism's job better than pacifism itself. If you get pacifism, feel free to give it to anyone but yourself n1, and to any seen wolves in subsequent nights (to avoid them forcing an abstain in most cases), not that it'll make that big of a difference.
 * Influence - Failed your request for bureaucratship on Wikipedia? Well, the influence totem is for you. Influence essentially turns anyone into a bureaucrat for a day, which means it has many of the same benefits as impatience for wild card situations, and generally helps out the village by making lynches faster, possibly circumventing the lack of votes from wolflovers or bad villagers.
 * If you get influence n1, feel free to give it to anyone. It honestly won't make a difference that early barring gunner shenanigans, but make sure not to give it to yourself, because then you can't protect yourself the next day if needed. On subsequent nights, feel free to give it to yourself or any other safe if you're in the lead.
 * Influence is also a very useful totem for 3p wild card situations, similar to impatience. Each has its own strengths and weaknesses. Impatience is a "guaranteed" way to take out the wolf, because you give it to the wild card, who will presumably survive since they're siding with the wolf. Then, the remaining village team member can simply vote the wolf to win. The problem with impatience is that it depends on speed, so a fast wolf will win the game before you can. Influence solves that problem by forcing the wolf and cultist to vote either you or the cultist, giving you more time to simply vote the wolf to win (as you need one vote, while they still need two). However, as shaman, you do not know whether the wolf will target you or the remaining villager. This makes influence more luck-dependent in these situations as if you give it to the person who dies, you automatically lose the game.
 * Pestilence (aleatoire only) - You will probably never see this totem in play as a regular shaman. The chances of you getting pestilence, even in the one non-random mode where it's available, are extremely slim. If you get this n1, however, you might actually want to give it to yourself. The wolves will think you've made a blunder by whiffing protection, only to kill you and find out they can't kill the next night (well, at the cost of losing you, of course), while also creating a target for villagers to go after, if they're smart enough to recognize that pestilence was given. Otherwise, give this totem to the lead safe, as they're the biggest targets and will be a great way of floodgating the wolves.
 * Retribution (aleatoire only) - Another way to punish wolves who go after the lead safe. Retribution should always go to the most likely wolf target per night. It can also go to yourself, but this is risky as the totem will be wasted if the wolves do not target you.

Don't:

 * Be an idiot. If you're the regular shaman, you should not be asking people if they want totems. That's a gigantic red flag and you might as well just be asking the wolves to kill you.
 * CLAIM BEFORE THE SEER IN ALEATOIRE MODE OR DEFAULT 7P. I don't care if you think the seer is always the most powerful role and that the shaman just "follows" the seer or whatever. Fact of the matter is, in default 7p, if the cultist is still alive and you lynch wrong, you cannot win without the shaman's totems manipulating the cultist and wolf. In aleatoire, the shaman gets much better totems and can protect the seer if they're alive, and the seer is weaker because there are many more cursed villagers. Read the claiming priority for aleatoire and default if you want more details.
 * Always give beneficial totems to yourself on the first night. This is a very common habit, and many shamans have died because they protected themselves the first night, didn't get killed, and was found by the wolf with very little evidence other than the fact that they received a totem. It's especially bad in modes with better totem ratios like aleatoire, because you are the most powerful role, but the wolves will probably guess that the person who received a totem last night was indeed the shaman who gave themselves protection/retribution/influence/what have you, and kill you. Unless you're confident that you and the other safes can end the game quickly, or you feel like the wolves will target you and you have to stay alive, you should generally not protect yourself, fearing the 1/(7+) chance that the wolves will eat you, and risk being instantly killed the second night. If the guardian angel is in the picture, however, this changes things slightly as it is more safe for you to give yourself a totem, then become protected the second night.
 * Fakehint. As villager, you want to fake hint, but be VERY careful when fakehinting as shaman. There are times when this is appropriate, such as if you're doing a gambit where you give yourself protection and bait out a wolf attack by hinting like the seer would. However, this will only draw the wolves' attention towards you, and if you're not being protected by another role you will probably be one of their likely targets.

Matchmaker
Love is in the air, and you're responsible for making it. A good game can be completely and utterly destroyed by rogue lovers, so tread carefully.

Do:

 * Be ready to lead. The matchmaker is the best lead in certain game modes such as aleatoire, since they only perform their job once and it's not a hit to the villagers at all if they die past the first night. Be ready to come out into the open and get safe PMs, while staying wary of lovers who claim safe roles or villagers to you.
 * Consider subtly hinting who the lovers are in case of your death. While this can be risky, it helps keeps the village informed. It's really up to preference on this point but I would suggest it.

Don't:

 * Be an idiot. Some matchmakers in the past have PMed the lovers and gotten promptly killed without a chance to relay to anyone who the lovers are, leading to safe channel sabotages and a quick village defeat.
 * Trust the lovers. Unless both are the only safe claims of their respective roles, you should always be skeptical when a matched seer, shaman, etc. tells you that their partner is a "villager." Keep lovers out of the safe channel and out of contact with other, unmatched fullsafes; relay them instructions instead, and note if they give you false information or hesitate to follow your orders.
 * Match yourself, unless it's in random or maelstrom, or you have a very good reason to (and more often times than not, you won't). This is mostly dependent on playstyle, but self-matching objectively makes for many more difficult games than otherwise. I get that being a wolflover and backstabbing the village is very appealing, but you are more likely to match yourself to a villager than a wolf, and if you do, you're basically screwed because now you can't ever be fully guarded and no one will trust you. The probability of catching at least 1 wolf in a group of 2 other lovers is higher than trying to match yourself to a wolf.
 * Tell who the lovers are to random people. Make sure that the people you tell are other safes; often times, people who demand to know who's matched without claiming a role are on the wolfteam.

Hunter
One of the village's signature "power" roles, hunters can make or break the tide of a game, and are effective village leaders. Skilled hunters are a threat to all wolves, while bad hunters are a threat to the progression of the game. It's up to you which one you'd rather be.

Do:

 * Be very deliberate with your shots. You can potentially make the village go -1 and waste your shot, or take out an important wolfteam member. Generally, you want to wait until you have a narrowed board and safe PMs so you can make a more educated decision on who to shoot.
 * Be ready to lead and/or claim. In some rolesets, the hunter is the best leader, since they only perform their job once and are less powerful than the seer overall. This isn't the case most of the time, but in the event that the matchmaker, harlot, etc. dies and you're left with seers and shamans, you will lead in their place.

Don't:

 * Shoot without abandon. You should be one of the last people to perform your job in a given day so that the seer and other roles have ample time to do theirs first. Remember, the hunter is a volatile role and thrives when more of the board is figured out. Get as much information as possible first instead of hastily shooting someone who acted suspicious the day before.
 * Shoot the first night. Sometimes this might work out, but the odds of you hitting a wolf or lycan with little to no information on the very first night is much, much lower than hitting a villager. Unless the seer is being super obvious and pointing out the wolf they saw (in which case it's probably a fake seer anyway), avoid shooting right away.

Various tips that can later be incorporated into specific role sections

 * If you're the guardian angel, you should consider guarding yourself on the first night. Unlike the shaman, it is not public knowledge who you guarded each night, so if you were protected and you whiff protection, nothing happens that indicates that you might be the GA. Of course, you should definitely look for legitimate hints at night and guard likely targets, and of course, guarding a villager and having them take a hit is a great way to attract wolves' attention to them instead of the lead safe. And of course, if you guard yourself and take a hit, you can always ask for protection the second night in case the wolves deduce that you're GA.
 * Playing as a lycan who intends to side with villagers is extremely difficult. I know from personal experience. If you're lycan and you want to side village, ask the doctor to immunize you if there's a doctor. Otherwise, PM the lead safe telling them your identity, and they may try to defend you. The good thing about playing village lycan is that the wolves are usually used to the lycan always wanting to be bitten, so they will trust the lycan if they PM them or asks for their help in channel. However, all this will do is reveal that they're wolf, making them easy targets. This is especially good if the only wolf left tries to target you after an abstain, and you get guarded, basically exposing them.
 * If you're vigilante, please don't shoot the first night. Seriously, you'll just die.
 * If you're MS targeting two people, don't claim. Potentially making the village go -3 in a single day/night is not worth it.
 * Be careful of mystic and village drunk claims in random, as they are never sound.

Difficulty Levels
Here, I've gauged the relative difficulty of each standard mode based on my own experiences with the rolesets.
 * Default: 4/10
 * Foolish: 4/10
 * Mad: 5/10
 * Lycan: 6/10
 * Aleatoire: 9/10
 * Alpha: 7/10
 * Evilvillage: 8/10
 * Charming: 5/10
 * Sleepy: 10/10